Chocolate Thought to Be Extinct Rediscovered in PeruPure Nacional, a variety of cacao, the plant used to make chocolate, that was oncethought to be extinct, has been rediscovered in Peru. Pure Nacional, with its complex fruit andfloral flavors, once dominated the fine chocolate market worldwide. In 1916, diseases struckthe Pure Nacional population in Ecuador and within three years 95% of the trees weredestroyed. The prized chocolate was thought to be lost, until now.The chocolate has been rediscovered growing in Peru. The United States Department ofAgriculture (USDA), the world's foremost genetics laboratory for the DNA testing of cacao,confirmed this discovery and after two years of hard work chocolate is being produced fromthese precious plants.Late in 2007, Dan Pearson and Brian Horsley were sourcing fruit in Peru's Marañón Canyonwhen they discovered cacao trees growing on small isolated farms in a remotehorseshoeshaped canyon surrounded by 6,000-feet canyon walls. The trees were growingfootballshaped pods filled with a rare mix of 40% white beans and 60% purple beans in thesame pods, or in some cases, the pods were completely filled with white beans. Familiar withonly purple beans, they were curious about the rare white beans and sent leaf samples to theUSDA for testing."When Dr. Meinhardt called with genetic test results and asked, 'Are you sitting down?' I knewwe had found something special," said Pearson.Dr. Lyndel Meinhardt, Lead Researcher and Dr. Dapeng Zhang, Lead Geneticist from theUSDA Sustainable Perennial Crops Laboratory in Beltsville, Maryland, analyzed the geneticstructure of the beans and found that they were Pure Nacional plants native to Peru. "Theinternational cacao database has 5,300 entries. None are Pure Nacional with white beans.Cacao pods with 40% and 100% white Pure Nacional beans are an unprecedenteddiscovery," said Meinhardt.They tested random leaf samples from various trees throughout the Marañón Canyon andconfirmed that the Pure Nacional plants were growing throughout the canyon. Dapeng said,"We are excited about this confirmation. It means that these cacao trees were indigenous toPeru. They are not exotic introductions from somewhere else."The high canyon walls in the Marañón Canyon created a unique micro-climate for the trees.The trees thrive at some of the highest altitudes ever reported for cacao, between 3,500 and4,100 feet. Horsley lives with the farmers and worked with them to turn the unique cacao intochocolate. The beans needed to be transported first by foot, then burro, then motorcycle andfinally by all-terrain vehicle.Horsley said, "The small farmers and I had to learn quality practices together. White beansmust be fermented and dried differently than purple beans, but it is unknowable in advancewhich is which," After two years, several site visits by fermenting and drying specialists,independent laboratory testing and 81 fermenting and drying trials, they found theanswers to processing the rare beans and founded maranonchocolate.com to offer theirexclusive product to pastry chefs, chocolatiers and their customers.Pearson traveled to Switzerland to have the beans made into one-of-a-kind chocolate by arenowned Swiss chocolate maker who found the white beans added a nutty flavor to theNacional fruit and flora profile. The chocolate maker was recommended by Franz Ziegler ofZiegler Consulting and Paul Edward of Chef Rubber. Ziegler is an award-winning author andwas named Pastry Chef of the Year in 2008 by the World Pastry Team Championship, wherehe has served as head judge since 2006. Edward is a pastry chef who has guided the projectsince he made the first Pure Nacional chocolate samples.Ziegler and his colleague Paul Edward of Chef Rubber said, "In our combined 50 years ofworking with chocolate, we have never tasted flavors like this. We had to experience thisourselves, so we both traveled to Peru, met the farm families, saw the trees, the whitebeans, the genetics tests and then watched the next evolution in post-harvest processing thatthey developed. We saw the past and the future of chocolate."